We are now in Fajara, The Gambia sitting at Ria's breakfast table. 4186km out of Freetown.

After Fana we went to Bamako. It went smoothly and we found the road to Kita without problems. Except there were no more banks and we needed CFA. Back to Bamako center driving around the market area forever. Finding a bank and a filling station, back out 90 minutes later. Out of town we passed a series of monstrous speed bumps for 2 kms. We got out of Kita the wrong way, it is now dirt roads but reasonably passable, after about 1 hour we found a sign saying 104km to Mamantali, not where we wanted to go, but on a parallel course. Road is decent bush road.

Landscape beautiful. Mamantali is a dam for electricity, we camp inside the compound of the electricity people. Good and very cheap bar. In the bar we meet three malaria scientists, they inform us the roads after Bafoubabe are very bad and we need a guide. The roof tent pleasant, Kebba in a room.

Up early, eat breakfast and away toward Bafoulabe good road. In Bafoulabe we negotiate for a guide to Kayes. First there is a young man who wants to do it, but we do not trust his abilities. An old man says the are no roads and rivers to cross. After a while a young apprentice with the trucks, says he Amimou? is willing and we do not need a pickaxe! Into the bush we go in a northerly direction sometimes just over the rocks, sometimes in sand and sometimes on a decent track.

After 90 minutes we have to cross a river, the first part is about 40 cm deep with soft bottom, then a drop to mid thigh - the Patrol pushes through. The road is now often non existant and when there, often through water. Like driving in a rice field.

16km later another river this time only knee deep.

After crossing the road? gets worse. It is now more in water than out of it.

After 1 hour we hit broken asfalt and turn West. It is pretty here River Senegal coming up Diamo. Lunch and see the train to Bamako.

Now North on another bush trail, but here more stony and not so much water.

Reach Kayes three hours later, having driven 260km in 10 hours. The American scientists were right. We did need a guide and gladly paid him off. The old Pah in Bafoulabe was also right. The trail is only negotiable for trucks anything else is dangerous.

Hotel Tieba in Kayes, Kebba in the tent and us in a room.

In the morning on the road after a car wash. Into Senegal easy except Immigration was difficult to find. Lunch in Tambacounda. On towards Velingara and Basse, The Gambia. Customs takes time as the Boss was out for prayers. Gets stopped by two armed agressive soldiers outside barracks. Strange after the peacefulness of Sierra Leone, Guinea, Mali and Senegal. On to Georgetown. You have to pay ferry crossings with foreign currency here if you drive foreign registry. Find a small hotel. Rice and Sauce 100 Dalasis, beer 33D not the Gambia we left in 2002. The bumsters in the hotel left, when they realized we we not going to give them anything.

In the morning ferry to the North Bank. New road to Farifenni. Found coffee there. On towards Basse. New road not tarred yet, a lot of mud and small part in the bush, mud and water. Barra at last. 50D a beer! Got three for 100. Small wait - lots of beggars including the security in the ferry terminal.

Small tour of Kololi - Sukuta when dropping Kebba at his home. Water everywhere it had rained plenty the night before. People unfriendly aggressive - not the Gambia we used to know.

Finally to Ria and Marcels residence in Fajara. The car gets emptied and cleaned. Great dinner.