We are now in Layoune - Western Sahara with Tim Sopp

Senegal was nice as usual. We stayed with Jutta and Samba just outside Saly after having dropped Ria & Marcel in Espadon.

A re-visit to Ile de Goree. We got there late as traffic was a nightmare. Peter sat outside Hotel Poste looking at the harbour, while Joni & Pat explored the island. Very nice. We were back at Jutta and Sambas late spending another 3 hours in traffic.

Sunday morning mass at Keur Musa. The carpet factory in Thies is not open on Sundays even if the Lonely Planet book says so. On to St. Louis, found a hotel on the beach. stayed for 2 nights. Peter got malaria, Joni and Pat toured the town. St. Louis is the old colonial administrative center for all French West Africa. A lot of the original buildings are still there in different state of repair. Very charming. We saw quite a lot of restoration going on, both privately and by the state of Senegal.

After a late start we get to Rosso and the border to Mauretania. The bumbsters had invaded the ferry termninal. Very confusing. Had to wait to 3 before being able to clear the police and immigration. The ferry arrived around 4 - on to Mauretania. More confusion, but finally after 1 hour the papers are in order and we drive North. Sahara starts just a few a few kilometers North of the river Senegal. Sand, the trees disappear, the bushes gets smaller, more sand and even a camel. We reached Nuackchott after dark. Found guesthouse La Dune after fumbling a bit. Food ok rooms primitive but clean.

The road to Atar 50km's out meet a minibus out off fuel. They had stayed at the roadside for two hours. Sold the 20l from a jerrycan on the roof. There is nothing here. The sand is quite white and a little drifting. It is hot. Further on we got 3 hours of sand storm across the road very low visibility. 50 km before Atar found another broken down vehicle, gave the driver a lift to the Gendarmerie Station, where the road to Tirjit branches off. Pretty road between the mountains. Palmtrees and green bushes. Found Auberge Caravan, camped. Hot and flies.

Takes a guide in the morning to Cinguetti via a very nice mountain piste. Crossed a big oasis with many palm trees. Cinguetti is very hot with an interesting old library. Claims documents shown goes back to 1150, could be true. The place need to be fixed up though or the desert will claim it back. On the way back we saw a few rock painting from the old people (10.000 years +). The car almost got too hot. Driving in the desert with the wind in the back - no cooling. On to Atar and Bab Sahara. It is hot and the food is good. And they have beer (Mauretania is dry). Kora and Juste have been in Mauretania for 10 years and made a living in the desert. Called Ahmed for us to guide us on a 2 days tour of the desert.

The piste to Benechap follows a water pipeline WSW from Akjout. There are markings every 2 km's. The piste is bon and the old Patrol behaves. Ahmed drives as I have no experience in desert driving. After 3 hours we arrived, there are some very big dunes on the piste, a little zig-zagging and 100 meters of 4WD and we were through. We camp in the only guesthouse, the owner is absent, but the caretaker lets us in. It is necesary to be inside a compound as the kids are a pest, wanting something all the time. Hot and sandy. During the night we were visited by a small storm. Sand everywhere. The morning is clear we go for the main road 200 km SW through the desert. After a while the sand dunes show up in the West. We have to find a piste around them. We are finally the, turn West and meet the asphalt road after a few minutes.

We could not visit the bird santuary because of rain the night before and more threatening. The access roads blocked. North to Niadibou. Guesthoust park the car eat in a decent restaurant next door. Say good by to Ahmed.

In the morning buy fruit and head North for the border. Leaving Mauretania is easy, but entering Western Sahara takes time as ports and the vehicle has to be entered in books. Get a customs document for the car for 1 month. Stop for lunch 80km up the road. Everything is here: diesel, restaurant, hotel ... and things work! On to Dahlia found a hotel and a good restaurant.

Got insurance, diesel and more fruit, on to Layoune. The drive was extremely boring stone desert. Made it just before dark. Called Tim, who came by car and lead the way to his home. Take out chicken with cold beers was very good. Only problem was that the starter for the Patrol has stopped working. The car push starts though. Nice to relax.